Since the last update there have been some small changes and design of special parts that need to be made. Starting with the design, I made a drawing of the coupling that's needed to attach the new motor to the original gearbox and a drawing of the new motor support.
The coupling is directly attached to the motor and gearbox, so there is no more clutch. There is no need for it because the motor stops in front of a redlight and I can still shift because there is so little weight to shift with one moving part in the motor. I can still shift through the gears but only using the synchromesh not the clutch.
The entire clutch assembly is removed including the pedal, flywheel, etc. The only thing of the clutch that is used is the clutch plate. The plate is used for the tread that slides over the gearbox spline. The outside will be removed to save weight especially because it moves with max 5000 RPM (the brown part, see last post for photo). The middle part will be drilled trough so it can be screwed to a aluminium cylinder. This cylinder will be machined to precise specifications. It will have four holes for the screws, room for the gearbox spline and room for the four springs in the plate. This will attach the the new motor. There are different ways of doing this, and I'm not sure yet what's the best way but we'll make it work ;) Drawing below, blue part stays, red goes and white is clutch plate.
The motor support is a bit less high tech. I'm planning on using the original motor support but I'll need to attach that to the new motor. I can screw the motor at the bottom and at the front. So I'll use a (probably) steel plate that goes underneath the motor. That will attach to the original support and the bottom of the gearbox. An other plate will go in front of the motor to screw it in there. This will end after two other small parts at the top of the gearbox. Maybe some sort of A frame for strength, and thin metal to box it all op. This same metal will be used to cover the bellhousing of the gearbox so it can't get dirty. Same story, drawing below:
I'll try to make the motor support myself, the coupler has to be made.
Beside the thinking and drawing I also did some real work. To be able to clean the chassis and treat it for the next 20 years every thing has to come of. So today I started further disassembly with the shocks, springs, stabilisation bar and breakline. This resulted in the entire back axle to fall of the chassis. Which was the goal ;) Next week the front wheel, and then I'll start grinding the chassis to get to bare metal, ready for tectyl or something.
From EV West I got two new parts! Left you see the throttle (hall effect throttle box 0-5v). It hooks up to the original pedal and gives the controller data about how much power I want to get. It also has an off switch when the my foot is off the pedal to shut the contactor or controller of if necessary. The blue thing on the right can measure the voltage of the whole battery pack and the flow of amps to the controller. The nice part is that it connects to a normal fuel and RPM gauge. So in the car, all original! It works by putting the high voltage cable though the hole and wire it up, that's it;) (No idea how it really works, haha). Its a Zeva fuel gauge plus, so with the rev counter. 300 amps will be shown as 3000 rpm.
When I got home I tested the controller. Needed a 18v power supply, and the cable I bought. It started up, no problems. Installed the driver and software needed and it recognized the controller right away. With the software I can set the min-max voltage and amps, the kind of throttle(0-5v), Throttle up and down rate(how fast it reacts) and top speed. The fun part is that I can monitor the parameters of the controller how much throttle input, temperature output current, etc. Also works perfect and the controller was a cool 19 degrees today.
Next time I'll start working more on the chassis, hoping to see some bare metal. And maybe spin the motor for the first time. To see if it works and if it turns the right way ;)
